The Goat-Down Gossamer Shawl – Affordable Luxury

It has become customary to call delicate, fine goat-down shawls gossamer shawls ("pautinki", "little cobwebs"). Indeed, the resemblance to the semi-transparent fabric woven by spiders is obvious. The same even, repeating pattern, the same strength and the same lightness. But unlike the spider's creation, the down one is much warmer and can transform any lady in an instant.

How down for gossamer shawls is obtained

A goat-down gossamer shawl will turn out surprisingly soft and warm if the down is taken from the animals at the right time.

The best down forms on these cloven-hoofed animals during the cold season. But it can be used only when the animals begin to moult. The finest fibres are combed out at the end of winter – beginning of spring. This is quite laborious work. First the hair is combed with wide-toothed combs. This is a preparatory operation intended to remove dirt and free access to the main treasure – the down.

The down is combed out with combs that have fine, bent metal teeth. The operation is repeated twice with a break of about two weeks. One animal gives about 400 grams of silky, elastic down, from which the finest yarn is obtained and the famous Orenburg down items are knitted.

White down is considered the most valuable. Grey, brown and black down are used without dyeing.

How the yarn is obtained

Goat down, sorted by colour, is washed first. This frees it from residual impurities and the animals' sweat and grease. The dried down is spun with a strong cotton or silk thread added. As a result, the yarn ready for further work contains about 80 percent natural down. This amount is quite enough for the shawls to be warm and fluffy.

How gossamer shawls are knitted

A goat-down gossamer shawl is knitted by hand on needles or by machine in factories. In the first case the item is softer and more voluminous. In the second it is flatter. This is especially noticeable to the touch. Besides, factory-made gossamer shawls are not as original as those knitted by hand.

Craftswomen use needles 2.5–3 millimetres in diameter. Since the knitting is loose, they choose needles whose non-working ends have large stoppers. Otherwise the fabric could slip off the working tool.

How openwork shawls are worn

Fine, warm shawls are meant for year-round use. An almost weightless goat-down gossamer shawl will keep you warm on cool summer evenings. It is indispensable on overcast autumn days. An Orenburg gossamer shawl will not let the blues set in when it is raining and slushy outside. One glance at the intricately intertwining stitches is enough to bring a smile to your face.

In winter, when weddings are held, modern brides often throw this wonderful item over their shoulders. Snow-white shawls go perfectly with a wedding outfit. They do not destroy a carefully chosen look but, on the contrary, emphasise the solemnity of the occasion. A bride sheltering from the frost in a down shawl appears to the groom and guests touchingly tender, like a flower, and dazzlingly pure, like the first snow.

More than a quarter of a millennium has passed since the first openwork shawls appeared. During this time down gossamer shawls, once available only to noble ladies, have come closer to Russian women. Most of our compatriots already own gorgeous down items. If you too want to buy a gossamer shawl, take our advice. Buy knitted down items directly from the makers or from official dealers.

Our specialised online shop sells down shawls, stoles and gossamer shawls. There are no fakes in the Shalnoy Orenburg catalogue, since we ourselves are both the suppliers and the makers.