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About the craft · Glossary

Glossary

A dictionary of terms about Orenburg down shawls, patterns, down, hand knitting and the craft.

We have collected the main words and concepts that help you better understand the Orenburg down shawl: how a gossamer shawl differs from a shawl, what the scalloped edging (zubtsy) is, how an openwork pattern is built and why the down of the Orenburg goat is valued in its own right.

Craftswomen examining a shawl pattern on a frame

Popular terms

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Technique and craft

32 terms

  • Technique and craft

    Acetate silk

    Acetate silk is one of the kinds of artificial silk, made from natural cellulose. It is a resilient material with a characteristic sheen, soft and pleasant to the touch. It…

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  • Technique and craft

    Spindle

    A spindle is the simplest device for making yarn by hand. It is a turned wooden rod tapered towards the upper end. An item of peasant life, the spindle is…

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  • Technique and craft

    Viscose

    Viscose is the only artificial material made from raw material of natural origin (natural cellulose). Depending on the processing method, it can resemble linen, wool or silk. Because of its…

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  • Technique and craft

    Volgograd down

    Volgograd down is the natural down of goats bred in the Volgograd Region. Items knitted from such down are valued for their high quality, durability and softness. They fluff up…

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  • Technique and craft

    Solid knitting

    Solid knitting is a knitting method used to make very dense and warm items — winter hats, scarves and mittens. The name comes from the “solid slip stitch”, which is…

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  • Technique and craft

    Border

    A border is a strip along the edge of a shawl or warm shawl that differs from the central part of the item in colour and/or pattern. The border of…

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  • Technique and craft

    Cardigan

    A cardigan is an elongated straight-cut jacket whose main distinguishing feature is the absence of a collar. The most common are jersey and knitted cardigans. Modern cardigans fasten with buttons…

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  • Technique and craft

    Kerchief

    A kerchief is one of the kinds of women's shawl, shaped like an isosceles triangle. A down kerchief is traditionally worn on the shoulders or the head.

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  • Technique and craft

    Lavsan

    Lavsan is a material of synthetic origin, one of the kinds of polyester. The key component of its composition is polyester fibres. The main properties of lavsan are strength, moisture…

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  • Technique and craft

    Machine knitting

    Machine knitting is a method of making knitted products, an alternative to handwork. Fabric knitted on a machine has a sharp (clearly legible) pattern, even rows and identical stitches. It…

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  • Technique and craft

    Mohair

    Mohair is yarn made from the wool of Angora goats. Among the main properties of mohair, manufacturers highlight lightness, resilience, strength and a characteristic sheen. It is an ideal raw…

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  • Technique and craft

    Home-based worker

    A home-based worker (nadomnitsa) is a worker who carries out orders assigned to her by an enterprise at home. Most handmade down products are made in this way.

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  • Technique and craft

    Nachyos (combed fibre)

    Nachyos is combed-out fibre, or the result of combing. Combing goats is very laborious work, and the maximum amount of down can be obtained only with timely and correct combing.…

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  • Technique and craft

    Non-co-spun yarn

    Non-co-spun yarn is high-quality yarnobtained by plying down yarn with a base. That is, first a dense thread is spun from down, and then a silk thread is wound over…

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  • Technique and craft

    Orenburg down shawl

    The Orenburg down shawl is a down product made from the down of a special selectively bred breed of Orenburg goats. Recently the term has been used as a collective…

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  • Technique and craft

    Guard hair

    Guard hair is the hairs in an animal's coat that are stiffer and longer. They often differ in colour as well. Guard-hair fibres have a three-layer structure, and their thickness…

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  • Technique and craft

    Noils

    Noils are short wool, cotton or linen fibres obtained in the process of combing fibrous material. They contain impurities. Practically all kinds of noils subsequently go into making yarn, most…

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  • Technique and craft

    Stole

    A stoleis a rectangular women's accessory, one of the kinds of scarf. The fabric of such an item can be woven or knitted. The most common are silk, wool, fur,…

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  • Technique and craft

    Gossamer shawl

    A gossamer shawl (pautinka) is a women's shawl made of down yarn, distinguished by a skilful openwork pattern resembling the finest spider's web. The fabric of such a shawl is…

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  • Technique and craft

    Pelerine

    A pelerine is an elegant semicircular cape covering a woman's shoulders. Pelerines are worn over a dress or blouse. Today the most common are fur and down pelerines, which combine…

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  • Technique and craft

    Shawl

    A shawl – is a square, woven or knitted item that traditionally adorns a woman's shoulders. Of the existing Russian brands, the best known is the “Orenburg down shawl”, which…

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  • Technique and craft

    Platoshnitsa

    A platoshnitsa is a craftswoman who specialises in hand-knitting warm shawls from down yarn. Stoles and gossamer shawls are knitted by openwork down knitters.

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  • Technique and craft

    Podmotka (ball core)

    A podmotka is the core of a ball of yarn, onto which the yarn is wound directly when knitting an Orenburg down shawl. In the old days the device was…

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  • Technique and craft

    Polyester

    Polyester is a strong fabric of synthetic origin made from polyester fibres. Thanks to similar characteristics, it is a full-fledged competitor of cotton in clothing manufacture. In appearance polyester resembles…

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  • Technique and craft

    Poncho

    A poncho – is an extravagant item of a woman's wardrobe with an opening for the head in the centre of the fabric and a loose cut. As an item…

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  • Technique and craft

    Spinning

    Spinning is the process of laying together and twisting individual fibres of wool or down, resulting in a strong, long thread (yarn). Various spinning methods are known. The most primitive…

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  • Technique and craft

    Spinning wheel

    A spinning wheel is a wooden device on which thread is spun by hand. It is driven by a foot pedal. A hand spinning wheel consists of two parts —…

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  • Technique and craft

    Down artel

    A down artel is a voluntary association of people to organise the full production cycle of down products.

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  • Technique and craft

    Embroidery hoop

    An embroidery hoop is a convenient round device that holds fabric securely, which greatly simplifies hand embroidery. Using wooden or plastic hoops, you can easily work on embroidery of any…

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  • Technique and craft

    Plying

    Plying is twisting two spun threads into one. Using plied yarn helps avoid skewing of the knitted fabric, gives the item a smoother surface and increases its strength and wear…

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  • Technique and craft

    Tonina (fineness)

    Tonina is a specific term in the down-knitting craft that in practice means the thickness of the knitting of an Orenburg down shawl.

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  • Technique and craft

    Warm shawl

    A warm shawl (shal) is a dense knitted or woven shawl framed with tassels or an openwork border. Traditionally, a warm shawl is square and large (more than a metre…

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Terms that help you choose an item

If you are choosing a shawl for the first time, start with these concepts: they will help you understand the difference between a light gossamer shawl, a warm shawl and a wrap, as well as size, density and openwork.

Also in the journal

About the glossary

The Shalnoy Orenburg glossary helps you make sense of the terms found in descriptions of Orenburg down shawls, gossamer shawls, wraps and stoles. It brings together concepts about down, hand knitting, patterns, shawl elements, care and the folk art craft.

Not sure which term applies to your item?

Tell us what you are choosing — a light gossamer shawl, a warm shawl, a large shawl or a gift. We will tell you which properties of the item to pay attention to.

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